We, as well as supplies for the whole island, were unloaded off the ferry and we stood on the pier and observed our new surroundings. It was already too late to walk anywhere, so we decided to look for an accommodation to make a fresh start tomorrow morning.

Beginning

We stayed at Raio de Sol camping, where a Brazilian couple shared their food with us, how nice! In the morning, Alejandro told us it’s possible to go around the island including the restricted area in about 5 days - exactly what we wanted to hear, so we packed and hiked up the mountain in direction to Dois Rios and Parnaioca. Dois Rios has seen most of its glory a long time ago, for the jungle began to reclaim man-built structures (mansions, former prison). But the beach there was impressive, long stretch of white sand with perfectly warm knee-deep lagoon and two rivers to cool you down.

The Trail

The island is crossed with many marked footpaths that take you to beaches, villages, cachoeiras or viewpoints. We hiked mainly through the atlantic jungle and across beaches, it was really beautiful. The trail was said to be well marked, it probably was to Brazilian standards, but the signs were missing many times and the trail split in two quite often. But we didn’t get lost and if you do, you’re still on the island. In more frequented areas (Abraao, western coast overlooking to Angra), the path is rather large. However, it can get very narrow (trilha 16 from Dois Rios to Parnaioca) and you need to make your way through fallen trees, vegetation, creeks, spider nets and occasional snakes.

The forbidden path that leads through a biological reservation is actually better than some others and you walk 3/4 on a beach. Unfortunately with a lot of trash washed up from the sea. The only thing is that you need to cross a quite slippery rock a river and a swamp, it’s not deep but you can’t see the bottom and Kuba unfortunately cut his foot.

We walked around 7-15km a day, depending on how much time we wanted to spend on the beach, how hard each section was and where we could find a campsite (wild camping is banned). The whole circle had about 50km.

The campsites are really good, most charge between R$20-30 per person. Expect a kitchen, shower (not always hot), reliable electricity only on the western side (diesel aggregate between Parnaioca and Aventureiro). There’s also a possibility of arranging a taxi boat if you’re short on time or no longer want to hike back to Abraao. At most of the campsites, they cook a prato feito, so you can have lunch/dinner there for around R$25 and carry less food. We were on budget so we didn’t do this. The western side has also some supermarkets, bakeries, sorveterias serving açai - prices are at Rio’s level, it’s not that expensive. Still, we believe it’s better to carry food for at least 2 days just in case.

People we met and places we’ve been to

Gustavo and Raphaela

We met amazing people on our Tour de Ilha. At Praia do Parnaioca, we met a Brazilian couple from Rio, Gustavo and Raphaela, with whom we spent the evening talking about our countries, their plans to move to New Zealand and our trip as well as consuming Becherovka. And we exchanged contact so that we can visit each other later!

The French

The next night, at the Praia do Aventureiro, we joined a drinking game with the French we’ve already met in Parnaioca. We didn’t really get the rules, but we got drunk and our beloved Becherovka passed away :( The French are all studying in Brazil, this was their time off. Kuba with Julien ran up the mountain at 5:30 to see the sunrise and it was worth it, it was a good one!

Ernesto

Next, we went to Praia do Longa, a small fishing village, where we stayed at Ernesto’s unfinished campsite, so we were negotiating the price and in the end, we got a room, bathroom, kitchen, bananas and half a beer for R$20. Good stuff. Ernesto was born and has since lived on the island. He doesn’t want to move, he believes this place is paradise. He’s quite right. When we were leaving Longa the next day, we heard music. It was coming from “church”, which looked more like a roofed patio with loudspeakers. We came in. There was a band and a chorus with one solo singer. It was the most beautiful ceremony we ever saw. So much energy. The pastor asked for our names to welcome us in the name of God. Blessed, we left to hike to the next beach.

Tourists

Around Sitio Forte and before ugly towns of Bananal and Matariz were very pretty beaches. One had lots of palms with big coconuts and we harvested as many as we could. They were really good with more or less a litre of coconut water. There were also some tourists, who got there by boat and were mixing up their coconuts with vodka and redbull. Ok… For them, we were an attraction, for they asked us how long we’ve been living on the island. They gave us some biscuits which was nice from them.

Julieta and Augustín

That night, we ended up wild camping next to an Argentinian couple, who’s travelling like real punks. We spoke together for a long time, exchanged tips on travelling in Argentina/Ilha Grande and taught them how to make our little beer can stove (aka el cocinador)… They ended up inviting us for dinner - spaghetti with tomato sauce. To the sound of monkeys, we went to sleep. We spent the next day chilling together with our Argentinian friends at one of the prettiest beaches so far, with azure water and no one.

Two guys from Sao Paulo

Our second night wild camping was spent next to two guys from Sao Paulo, who were illegally camping there for 3 nights. It was a perfect location next to a cachoeira and very nice beach. The only downside were annoying dogs. They were leaving early in the morning and left us some food :)

Chess in Abraao

Before we left the island, we went to a cachoeira Big Well near Abraao. Although touristy, it was really nice as it featured a small natural slide into the water. In Abraao, we ate at the buffet and were playing chess all afternoon. The locals were very curious, well interested in the game and some of them stopped by and noted how intelligent chess is. Simon won all games, including one against a local guy from Argentina, who’s been working at a hostel in Abraao since 2 years.

Rounding up

Ilha Grande is beautiful and there’s so much to do. The landscapes are incredible, the beaches are the best and walking around it feels very relaxing. We met great people. The culture in less touristy parts of the island is also worth a shot. We lived up to some really strong moments that we will remember forever. We didn’t make it to the highest mountain (Pico do Papagaio) and the famous beach (Lopes Mendes). Many people call this place paradise and you’ll surely fall in love with this place.